The Lady S Album Of Fancy Work For 1850 By Unknown

Consisting of Novel, Elegant, and Useful Designs in Knitting, Netting, Crochet, Braiding, and Embroidery with Clear and Explicit Directions for Working the Patterns ADDRESS Encouraged by the kind welcome which greeted their former efforts to provide a volume worthy the attention of the ladies of the United Kingdom, the Publishers of the Lady’s Album of Fancy-Work have issued a similar production for 1850. Solicitous to preserve the favourable consideration so flatteringly accorded, every care has been taken to render the Lady’s Album of fancy-Work for 1850 as attractive and useful as possible; no expense has been spared in its artistic illustration, letterpress, and embellishment; and it will be found an elegant ornament in the drawing-room as well as a useful ally at the work-table. The patterns and designs are of the most useful and varied character: specimens are given of each style of work recently invented; and no article either of ornament or use at present in fashion is omitted. The exercise of the needle has been from time immemorial a favourite occupation with the females of every country; and the allusions to the subject from cotemporary historians and poets evince that this feminine pursuit was regarded with approval and respect. The invention of embroidery is ascribed to the Phrygians; and we also learn from ancient authors, that the Sidonians particularly excelled in this beautiful art of decorative needlework; it must have also made considerable progress in the country soon after the Norman Conquest, from the accounts that are recorded of the robes embroidered in gold and silver, generally worn by persons of rank at that period. The Bayeux Tapestry also remains to us as a lasting trophy of the skill and industry of Queen Matilda and the ladies of her court, and is not more interesting as a historical record than as a specimen of the needlework of the mediaeval age. The introduction of knitting into this country is comparatively of modern date; so late as the middle of the sixteenth century. The invention of the art is usually ascribed to the Spaniards; though the Scotch, with some appearance of justice, assert their claims as its originators. Like all inventions, knitting has undergone wonderful improvements since it was first simply used for stocking-making: and the value attached to stockings so made may be judged from the fact, that a pair were deemed a fitting present from one sovereign to another. A pair of knitted hose was amongst the gifts received by that lover of finery, Queen Elizabeth; but no record remains to shew if these were preserved with the three thousand robes which were found after her death in the wardrobe of England’s Maiden Queen. The love for domestic occupations, which is so admirable a trait in the character of our countrywomen, has often been a subject of gratulation; and that female ingenuity and skill may continue to be employed in embellishing the drawing-room, rather than in directing the political intrigues of the salon, must be desired by all interested in the preservation of those domestic attributes which give so pleasing a charm to home, and secure the comfort of all around. The taste which her Majesty Queen Victoria evinces for feminine pursuits and occupations has naturally exercised considerable influence in preserving habits of industry amongst her female subjects; and to her Majesty’s example, and that of the amiable Queen Dowager, may be ascribed that the labours of the English embroideress are now justly appreciated, and her work esteemed as in no respects inferior to the produce of foreign ingenuity. In expressing their thanks for the patronage extended to the Lady’s Album of Fancy-Work for 1849, the Publishers take leave to state that the present Volume contains designs and patterns for various articles in Embroidery, Braid-Work, Crochet, Knitting, Netting, Ribbon-Work, Scagliola, and Indian Ornamental Work; all of which are executed and engraved in a style of unusual superiority. Each pattern is accompanied with plain and explicit directions; and it is hoped that their execution will afford many hours of pleasurable employment to the fair and industrious votaress of the needle. CONTENTS. Explanation of the various Terms used in Crochet General Instructions for Embroidery

Front for Lady’s Cabinet (Embroidery)
Cover for Cake-basket (Netting)
Infant’s Bonnet (Crochet)
Lace for Pocket-handkerchief (Crochet)
Elizabethan Watch-hook (Crochet)
Music-stool Cover (Crochet)
Cover for Album (Embroidery)
Serviette for Cruet-stand (Crochet)
Screen (Embroidery)
A Long Purse in Honeycomb Pattern (Netting)
German Knitting-bag (Crochet)
Cigar-case (Embroidery)
Collar au Feston (Embroidery)
Card-case (Scagliola Work)
Claret-jug Mat (Embroidery) 20, 21. Corner for Handkerchief (Embroidery)
Cover for Easy-chair (Crochet)
Lady’s Reticule (Crochet)
Spectacle-case (Scagliola Work)
Toilet-cushion (Crochet)
Bonnet-preserver (Knitting)
Small Ottoman (Embroidery)
Card-basket (Crochet)
Raised Crochet Collar (Crochet)
A Chess-board (Scagliola Work)
Garniture for Toilet-basket (Crochet)
Greek Cap (Embroidery)
Flower-stand (Crochet)
Cover for Tassel of Window-blind (Crochet)
Under-sleeve (Crochet)
Smoking Cap (Embroidery in Braid)
Baby’s Cap (Crochet)
Lace for Cap (Crochet)
Apron (Embroidery)
Limerick Lace Scarf (Tambour)
A Knitting-bag (Netting)
Vase-stand (Netting)
Watch-pocket (Braid)
Mitten (Crochet)
Collar (Crochet)
Centre of a Cover for Music-book or Portfolio (Embroidery)
Winter Head-dress (Crochet)
“Baboche,” or Ornament for Candles
Chess-board (Scagliola Work)
D’oyley (Crochet)
Gauntlet Cuff (Crochet)
Liqueur-stand Mat (Embroidery)
Border for a Lace Scarf or Veil (Crochet Applique)
Card-case (Crochet)
Round Collar (Crochet)
Prince of Wales’s Plume (Embroidery)
Pattern for Window-curtains (Netting)
Gentleman’s Braces (Embroidery)
Toilet-cushion (Embroidery)
The Helen Cap (Netting)
Screen (Indian Ornamental Work)
Heartsease (Knitting)
Serviette for Liqueur-stand (Crochet)
A New and Elegant Work for Sofa-pillows, Card-baskets, &c. (Ribbon Work)
Lady’s Silk Mitten (Crochet)
Couvrette for Devotional Chair (Netting)
Sachet (Embroidery)
Pen-wiper (Embroidery in Braid)
Pattern for Footstool or Cushion (Berlin Work)
A Mat for a Flower-vase (Crochet) 79, 80. Lady’s Slipper (Embroidery in Braid) EXPLANATION OF THE VARIOUS TERMS USED IN CROCHET. CHAIN-STITCH OPEN CROCHET.–This consists of five or any uneven number of loops attached by a plain stitch to every third stitch of the foundation, and in the succeeding rows to the centre loop of the chain of previous row. THREE CHAIN CROCHET.–Work a chain of three loops as in chain-stitch open crochet. DOUBLE CROCHET.–Work as follows: having made a chain, pass the needle through the first loop on the chain, draw the cotton through the loop, there will now be two loops on the needle, through these draw the cotton. SINGLE CROCHET.–Insert the needle in the loops, and draw the cotton through this loop and that on the needle. RIBBED CROCHET.–This is worked in a similar manner to double crochet, only that the under loop of the previous row is taken, and it is done in rows to and fro. LONG STITCH.–Twist the cotton round the needle, pass it through the loop, draw the cotton through the first two loops on the needle, then catch the cotton again and draw it through the next two loops; there will be one loop left on the needle. DOUBLE LONG STITCH.–This resembles long stitch, excepting that the cotton is twisted twice round the needle. TREBLE LONG STITCH.–Twist the cotton three times round the needle. SINGLE OPEN CROCHET.–This is a succession of long stitches, with a chain-stitch between each, missing one stitch of the foundation; in the succeeding rows the long stitch is worked between the two long stitches of the preceding rows. DOUBLE OPEN CROCHET.–This consists of two long stitches, then two chain-stitches; or it may be varied by making one long stitch, two chain-stitches, missing the same number of stitches in foundation as there are chain-stitches. TREBLE OPEN CROCHET.–Work three long stitches, then three chain, missing three of the foundation. VANDYKE OPEN CROCHET.–Work three long stitches into one of the foundation, make one chain-stitch, miss three of the foundation; repeat. In the next and following rows the long stitches are worked in the chain-stitch. * * * * * GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR EMBROIDERY. The various elegant designs for handkerchiefs, jupons, shirts, &c. are worked in raised satin stitch. The material used is French working-cotton; numbers 100 or 120 will be found suitable for most purposes, but this must be regulated by the quality of the cambric. Handkerchiefs embroidered in colours continue to be extremely fashionable; the patterns in the Lady’s Album are of the most novel description, and quite suitable for this style of work. The names and initial letters are worked in satin-stitch, sewing over the lines. THE LADY’S ALBUM OF FANCY NEEDLEWORK. * * * * * EMBROIDERY.
FRONT FOR LADY’S CABINET. Materials–Black satin; six shades of crimson, five shades of yellow, three shades of puce, two shades of scarlet, three shades of yellow-greens, three shades of blue-greens, and two shades of brown embroidery silk, or of chenille. Draw the design upon the satin, frame the work, and work in embroidery-stitch. The rose-leaves with the yellow-greens, the leaves of thistles with the blue-greens, the stems with brown, the thistle and bud of thistle with the shades of puce, working the centre of the former with the shades of scarlet. Work the rose on the right hand of thistle with the four darkest shades of crimson, and that on the left and the buds with the four lightest shades. Work the remaining rose with the yellow shades. Work the designs for corners in a similar manner, shading according to the taste of the worker. The above design is adapted for the front or door of a small rosewood or an inlaid ebony cabinet, suitable for a lady’s boudoir or dressing-room. It looks well if worked upon white instead of black satin; and if the former is used, it is advisable to have plate-glass as a protection to the needlework.

[Illustration: No. 1. FRONT FOR LADY’S CABINET.] [Illustration: No. 2 COVER FOR CAKE-BASKET.] * * * * * NETTING. 2. COVER FOR CAKE-BASKET. Materials–Raworth’s crochet-thread No. 40, darning-cotton No. 12, meshes Nos. 4 and 9, cornucopia gauge. With the crochet-thread make a foundation by netting 33 loops on the large mesh, join and net 6 rounds on mesh No. 9, then on mesh No. 4 net 4 loops in one, missing every alternate loop; net 7 rounds on mesh No. 9, then on the large mesh net 4 loops in one, missing, as before, every alternate loop; net 15 rounds on the small mesh, net 4 loops in every alternate loop on the large mesh, then net 24 rounds on mesh No. 9; (a) net 24 loops, then net back, leaving the last of the 24 loops: continue netting these loops to and fro, decreasing one loop at the end of each row by leaving the last loop, and net until but one loop remains; repeat from (a) all round. This forms the scalloped edge. With the cotton embroider the pattern in darning-stitch, as given in illustration. * * * * * CROCHET. 3. INFANT’S BONNET. Materials–Drab crochet-thread and a middle-sized hook. Make a chain of 9 stitches; unite and work three rounds in double crochet, increasing in every loop in the first round, in every alternate in the second, and in every third in the third round. 4th round. 1 l, 1 ch worked in every loop of previous round.– 5th round. 1 l worked in 1 l of last round, 2 ch; repeat.– 6th round. 1 l in the 1 l, 3 ch; repeat.– 7th round. Double crochet.– 8th round. Double crochet, increasing in every eighth stitch.– 9th round. Double crochet, increasing as before; repeat from fourth round four times, then work 1 l, 2 ch, miss 2 three times, then three rounds of double crochet without increasing; work these last six rounds three more times. This completes the bonnet. For the Roll.–Make a chain the width required; work three rows in double crochet; three rows 1 l, 2 ch, miss 2; after which work alternately three rows of double crochet; three rows 1 l, 2 ch, miss 2, increasing a stitch at the beginning and end of each row; these six rows may be repeated five more times, or till the size wished for is worked. Make up the bonnet on a foundation covered with blue silk, form the roll for the edge with wadding, trim with a small plume of blue feathers, or a rosette of blue ribbon. The above directions are for a bonnet for an infant of five or six months old, but by increasing the number of rounds and rows for the roll a larger size may be worked. * * * * * CROCHET. 4. LACE FOR POCKET-HANDKERCHIEF. Material–Raworth’s crochet-thread No. 70. Work a chain the required length; d c. into every stitch of this chain.– 2d row. 1 d l s, * 3 c s, miss 3; 1 d l s into fourth; repeat from *.– 3d row. 12 c s, s c into d l s; * 12 c s, miss 1 d l s, s c into second d l s; repeat from *.– 4th row. Begin on centre of loop of 12; * 16 c s, s c round the same loop, close to first stitch; 12 c s, s c round centre of next loop; repeat from *. 5th row. Commence on centre of 12 c s in last row; * 9 c s, s c into top of 16 c s; 9 c s, s c into centre of 12 c s; repeat from *.–6th row. 1 d c, 3 l s, 1 d c round every 9 c s in last row.– 7th row. Commence on centre of 3 l s; * 13 c s, s c into same stitch to form a ring; d c round this seventeen times; 12 c s, miss 1, scallop, s c into second scallop; repeat from *.– 8th row. Commence on top stitch of 17 d c, round the ring in last row; * 8 c s, s c into same stitch; 8 c s, d c round centre of next loop of 12 c s; 8 c s, s c into centre stitch of ring; repeat from *.– 9th row. Begin in small loop at top of ring; 8 c s, 1 l s into same small loop; * 5 c s, s c into fifth of 8 c s in last row; 5 c s, s c into fourth of next loop of 8 c s; 5 c s, 1 l s into top loop; 5 c s, 1 l s into same loop; repeat from *.– 10th row. Begin in small loop at top of former small loop; * 11 c s, s c into next small loop; repeat from *.– 11th row. Begin on centre of 11 c s; * 7 c s, 1 t l s into same stitch; 6 c s, 1 s c into last part of t l s; 7 c s, s c into first stitch of the row; 12 c s, s c into centre of next 11 c s *; repeat from * to *.– 12th row. 9 c s, d into small loop of 6 c s; repeat.– 13th row. 7 c s, s c into centre of 9 c s; repeat.– 14th row. 7 c s, s c into centre of 7 c s; repeat.– 15th row. * 9 c s, 1 l s round 7 c s; 9 c s, 1 l s round same loop of 7; 9 c s, 1 s c into same loop; 10 c s, miss 1 loop of 7 c s, s c round next loop; repeat from *. * * * * * CROCHET. 5. ELIZABETHAN WATCH-HOOK. Materials–Half-an-ounce of pink four-thread Berlin wool, half-an-ounce of white ditto, four yards of cord, and a pair of pearl watch-hooks. With pink work in double crochet over the cord a circle of three inches and a half diameter; there should be 140 stitches round the edge, on which work the border, thus:– 1st row white. Work 1 stitch in open crochet, 1 chain, miss 1 of the foundation; repeat.– 2d row white. Work two treble long stitches into every space, 1 chain stitch between each.– 3d row pink. Work 1 open crochet into every space, 1 chain; repeat.– 4th row pink. 1 plain crochet, 2 chain, miss 20, 1 plain; repeat. Tack the loops in the centre, and sew on a pearl watch-hook. * * * * * [Illustration: No. 3. INFANT’S BONNET.] [Illustration: No. 4. LACE FOR POCKET-HANDKERCHIEF.] [Illustration: No. 5. ELIZABETHAN WATCH-HOOK.] [Illustration: No. 6.] [Illustration: No. 7.] * * * * * CROCHET 8. MUSIC-STOOL COVER. Materials–Shaded green Berlin wool, four threads; ivory crochet-hook. Make a round the size of a shilling, and work thirty-two treble-stitches round it.– 2d round. 3 treble, 3 chain; repeat.– 3d round. 1 single into the middle treble-stitch of the 3 in last round, 9 treble in the loop of 3 chain; repeat.– 4th round. 1 single into the third of the 9 treble, 5 chain, 1 single into the seventh of the 9 treble; repeat.– 5th round. 2 treble, 5 chain, 2 treble in the chain of five in the last round, 5 chain; repeat.– 6th round. 2 treble over the 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble in the loop of 5 chain, 2 chain, 2 treble over the second, 2 treble, 3 chain; repeat.– 7th round. 2 treble over the first 2 treble-stitches, 3 chain, 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble, 1 chain; repeat.– 8th round. 4 treble, commencing on the last 2 treble-stitches in the last round, 5 chain, 2 treble, 5 chain; repeat.– 9th round. 2 treble over the 2 middle of the 4 treble, 7 chain, 2 treble, 7 chain; repeat.– 10th round. 1 single into the last chain-stitch in the last round, (a) 5 chain, 1 single into the second of the chain of seven, 7 chain, 1 single into the last but one of the 7 chain; repeat from (a).– 11th round. 1 single into the centre stitch of the 7 chain, 9 chain; repeat. 12th round. Treble.– 13th, 14th, and 15th rounds. Single open.– 16th, 17th, and 18th rounds. The same, only making 2 treble-stitches together, with 1 chain.– 19th round. Plain treble.– 20th round. 1 single, 7 chain into every 3 stitch in the last round.– 21st round. 1 treble into the centre of the 1 loop of 7 chain, 6 chain, 1 single into second loop of 7 chain, 6 chain; repeat.– 22d round. 3 treble, commencing on the chain-stitch before the treble in last round, 6 chain, 1 single over the single in last round, 6 chain; repeat.– 23d round. 5 treble, commencing on the chain-stitch before the 3 treble in last round, 6 chain, 1 single over the single in last round, 6 chain; repeat.– 24th round. 7 treble, commencing as before, and making a chain-stitch between each treble, 5 chain, 1 single over the single in last round, 5 chain; repeat. * * * * * EMBROIDERY 9. COVER FOR ALBUM. Materials–Black or crimson satin or velvet, gold thread, and gold-coloured silk braid. Draw the pattern with a white crayon, and work the leaves and the name with the gold thread in embroidery-stitch; sew on the braid on the scroll which encircles the cover. * * * * * CROCHET. 10. SERVIETTE FOR CRUET-STAND. Materials–Raworth’s crochet-thread No. 30, or three shades of rose and one of drab crochet-thread. If the coloured threads are used, commence with the lightest pink, and make a chain of 30 stitches; work on each side and in the end of this in close double crochet, increasing by making three stitches in the end-stitches.– 2d round. 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2, except at the three end-stitches, when none must be missed.– 3d round. 1 long in the 1 long of last round, 2 chain; increase at the ends by working 1 long in the alternate chain-stitches.– 4th round (with the second shade). 5 single, 11 chain, miss 7; repeat all round.– 5th round. Work a stitch of double crochet in each of the chain-stitches, and in the first two of the single of last round, 5 chain, unite to the single in the ring which this forms; work 1 single, 3 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 1 single, work 2 double in the 2 single; repeat all round.– 6th round (with the darkest shade). 1 single in the centre of the 11 chain-stitches, 9 chain, 1 single in double long, 9 chain; repeat.– 7th round. Double crochet in every stitch of last round. For the Forget-me-nots.–With drab make a chain of 6 stitches, unite, and into this ring work 3 long stitches, 3 chain-stitches; repeat four times more. Make a chain of 5 stitches for the stem, and fasten off. For the Leaves.–Make a chain of 15 stitches, work 11 double crochet down this chain, pass the thread under the stalk, and draw it through the 12 stitch on the opposite side. Work 1 long stitch into each of the next 3 loops; 4 chain-stitches, (a) 1 single crochet into the next loop; 1 long stitch into the following loop; 2 double long into the next; 1 treble long into the next; 2 double long, 1 single long, 4 chain; repeat from (a) to the 1 treble long, which brings you to the point of leaf. Work on the reverse side 2 double long, 1 long, 1 single, (a) 4 chain, 1 single, 2 double long, 1 long, 1 single; repeat from (a), and finish by working down the stem. 27 forget-me-nots and 12 leaves will be required. Cut a paper pattern the size and shape required; tack the centre of serviette to this, the right side to the paper, arrange the leaves and flowers as indicated in illustration; work stems for the flowers in chain-stitch, and to this attach each flower; work between the flowers and the leaves in button-hole stitch, and sew the leaves and flowers to the centre. * * * * * [Illustration: No. 5. MUSIC STOOL COVER] [Illustration: No. 9. COVER FOR ALBUM.] * * * * * EMBROIDERY 11. SCREEN. Materials–Black satin, three shades of green chenille, three shades of brown chenille gold twist, and gold beads. Work the shamrocks with the green chenille, veining the leaves with gold twist; the foliage in the background is also worked with green chenille. The framework of the harp is executed with beads, and the strings with twist. The wolf-hound is worked with brown chenille in embroidery-stitch, as also are the stems of the shamrocks and foliage. * * * * * NETTING 12. A LONG PURSE IN HONEYCOMB PATTERN. Materials–Three skeins of coarse purse silk, either a rich green, dark blue, or cerise, according to fancy; mesh No. 12. For the length, you will require a foundation of 72 stitches. 1st row. Net plain.– 2d row. Net the 2d stitch, then the 1st, now net the 4th, and afterwards the 3d; continue in this way to the end of the row.– 3d row. The first and every alternate stitch of last row will appear to be twisted, into which net 1 stitch; but into 2d and every other net 2; repeat to the end of the row.– 4th row. Net plain, leaving the extra stitches of last row unnetted; these 4 rows form the pattern, which must be repeated fourteen times more; join one-third of the rows together at each side, net 2 rows round the opening with a No. 21 mesh, draw up the ends, and finish with steel tassels and slides. * * * * * CROCHET. 13. GERMAN KNITTING-BAG. Materials–Green and puce Berlin wool (four shades of green and three of puce), three skeins of each shade, and four skeins of black wool. One pair of tassels of corresponding colours, and a quarter of a yard of morocco leather for lining, will also be required. Work in double-stitch crochet, passing the hook through both the upper and under loop of the stitch of the preceding row. With black make a chain nine inches in length. Work 1 row; work 2 rows with each shade of green, commencing with the darkest; work 2 rows with black, then work 1 row with each shade of puce, commencing at the darkest. Work five stripes with each colour, and in working the last row but one of black work 3 chain, miss 3, fourteen stitches from each end. These form button-holes. For the Ends.–With darkest green make a chain of 9 stitches; unite, and work two rounds, increasing in every stitch in the first and every alternate in the second round. Work two rounds with each of the other shades, increasing always in the same stitch. Work one round with black, one with the lightest puce, then one with black. Work a second end in the same manner. For the Handle.–With black make a chain fourteen inches in length. Work one row with the second shade of green, one with the mid shade of puce, then one with the third shade of green, and one again with black. Crochet in the ends to the body of the bag. Line with leather. Sew on the handle, the tassels, and also two buttons on the side opposite to the button-holes. Sew gimp round the joining at the ends, or work 3 plain stitches, 9 chain, miss 4, with black wool.– 2d row. 1 stitch of double crochet in every stitch. * * * * * EMBROIDERY 14. CIGAR-CASE. Materials–Dark crimson velvet, or cachmere and gold twist or embroidery silk; if the latter, three shades of green, three of rose, three of blue, three of yellow, three of violet, and two of brown will be requisite. Draw the pattern on the material with a white crayon, and work in embroidery-stitch with gold twist or the silks, as may be preferred; if the silks are used, work the leaves with the shades of green, the stems with brown, the pansy with the shades of violet and yellow, the buds of the rose with the greens and the rose-colours, and the forget-me-nots with blue, carefully blending the shades as may be suggested by the taste of the worker. Finish with a row of gold twist sewed round the edge of the case. * * * * * EMBROIDERY 15. COLLAR AU FESTON. Materials–Cambric muslin and French working-cotton No. 80, or black silk and fine sewing-silk. Having drawn the pattern on the material, work the lines and the edge in button-hole stitch; then cut out the spaces between the lines, leaving only the parts which are worked. * * * * * [Illustration: No. 10. SERVIETTE] [Illustration: No. 11. SCREEN.] [Illustration No. 12. LONG PURSE IN HONEYCOMB PATTERN.] * * * * * SCAGLIOLA WORK 16. CARD-CASE. See directions in page 22. * * * * * EMBROIDERY 19. CLARET-JUG MAT. Materials–White silk or cachmere; three shades of scarlet, three of blue, three of green, and two of yellow chenille; five shades of scarlet Berlin wool, two skeins of each shade; and two skeins of white wool. Draw the pattern on the material; work in embroidery-stitch the centre flower with the shades of scarlet, and the stamens of the flower with two shades of yellow. The buds are worked with scarlet, the small flowers with blue, and the leaves with green. Work the fringe from the directions for fringe for liqueur-stand, and line with green silk. * * * * * EMBROIDERY 20, 21. CORNER FOR HANDKERCHIEF. Materials–French cotton No. 120. Work in raised satin stitch. * * * * * CROCHET. 22. COVER FOR EASY-CHAIR. Materials–Raworth’s crochet-thread No. 21, and pink and drab crochet-thread of corresponding quality. With drab make a chain the length required.– 1st and 2d rows. Double crochet.– 3d row. 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2; repeat.– 4th row. 1 long, 5 chain, (a) 5 long, 5 chain, miss 5; repeat from (a).– 5th row. 1 long, 4 chain, (a) 5 long, worked on the last stitch of chain and above the first four long of last row; repeat from (a).– 6th, 7th, and 8th rows. As 5th row, but that the number of edge-stitches must decrease in each row.– 9th row. 5 long, the first worked above the second long of last row, the remaining above the remaining long, and in the first stitch of chain; repeat.– 10th, 11th, and 12th rows. As 9th row, increasing the number of edge-stitches.– 13th row. With white, double crochet.– 14th row. 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2; repeat.– 15th row. 7 stitches of double, (a) make a chain of 15 loops, form a circle by working a plain stitch into the ninth loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the second loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the third loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the fifth loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the sixth loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the eighth loop; work a stitch of single crochet in each of the remaining chain stitches, then 15 stitches of double crochet in the fifteen following stitches of the 14th row; repeat from (a) to the end of row. With pink work rows of single open crochet between the flowers already worked with white, attaching the thread to the second stitch of foundation in the 1st row, and finishing in the third chain in the opposite leaf. In the 2d row, fasten the thread to the third chain of second leaf, and finish at the opposite leaf.–3d row. Fasten on at the fifth chain of second leaf, and finish at the opposite leaf.–4th row. Commence at third chain of third leaf, and finish at opposite leaf. Work thus between each of the flowers to the end of row, then work a row of single open crochet. With white work 1 row in double crochet, and a row, 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2; repeat. Recommence again at 2d row, and repeat the stripes of drab five times, and of pink three times. Procure two tassels of the colours used in the cover for chair, and attach to the sides. * * * * * CROCHET. 23. LADY’S RETICULE. Materials–Drab crochet-thread, two shades of narrow blue satin ribbon, cord and tassels to correspond with the ribbon; a piece of blue and a piece of white silk as a lining. Make a chain of 130 stitches.– 1st row. Double crochet.– 2d row. 3 chain, 3 long.– 3d row. 3 long worked in the 3 chain, 3 chain; repeat.– 4th and two following rows. 1 long, 3 chain.– 7th, 8th, 9th,10th, and 11th rows. Like the 2d and 3d; repeat from the 3d row twice, and finish with 3 rows, 3 long, 3 chain, miss 3. Crochet the sides together, work a row of double-long stitches around the top, in which to insert the cord, and finish with a row of double crochet. Pass the ribbon through the rows of 3 chain, 3 long, placing the lightest in the centre strip, as will be seen by referring to illustration. Make a double lining with the silk; place the white next the reticule, and the blue inside, and finish with cord and tassels. * * * * * [Illustration: No. 13. GERMAN KNITTING BAG.] [Illustration: No. 14 CIGAR-CASE.] [Illustration: No. 15. COLLAR AU FESTON.] [Illustration: No. 16. CARD-CASE.] [Illustration: No. 17.] [Illustration: No. 18.] * * * * * SCAGLIOLA WORK 24. SPECTACLE-CASE. Procure a case made of sycamore wood of proper shape. Upon this draw the design with a pencil, trace over the pencil-marks with Indian ink and a fine crow-quill; then fill in the ground with Indian ink and a camel’s-hair brush. After two or three days, varnish with the best picture-varnish. * * * * * CROCHET. 25. TOILET-CUSHION. Material–Raworth’s thread No. 90. Make a chain of 9 stitches, join and work 3 rounds in double crochet.– 4th round. 3 chain, 1 long in every alternate stitch.– 5th round. Double crochet.– 6th round. 3 chain crochet.– 7th round. Two 3 chain crochet-stitches, 3 chain, 7 long in the centre loop of 5th, 3 chain crochet-stitch.– 8th round. Three 3 chain crochet-stitches, 7 chain over the 7 long.– 9th round. Double crochet.– 10th round. 3 chain, 1 long in every alternate stitch.– 11th round. Double crochet.– 12th round. Two 3 chain crochet-stitches, 6 long in 9th stitch.– 13th round. Four 3 chain crochet-stitches, 6 long over the 6 long.– 14th round. Three 3 chain crochet-stitches, 8 long.– 15th round. Two 3 chain crochet, 10 long.– 16th round. 3 chain, 12 long.– 17th round. Four 3 chain crochet-stitches over the 12 long, 7 long in the centre loop of 3 chain.– 13th round. Five 3 chain crochet-stitches, 9 long over the 7 long.– 14th round. Three 3 chain crochet, 11 long.– 15th round. Two 3 chain crochet, 13 long.– 16th round. 3 chain, 15 long.– 17th round. Double crochet.– 18th round. 3 chain, 2 long, missing two stitches.– 19th round. Double crochet.– 20th round. 7 chain, 7 long in centre of 7th stitch.– 21st round. 7 chain, 7 long over the 7 long.– 22d round. 7 chain, 7 long.– 23d round. 9 chain, 5 long.– 24th round. 11 chain, 3 long.– 25th round. Double crochet. Lace.–1st round. 8 chain, 6 long, missing 6 stitches.– 2d round. 5 chain, 1 long in centre of 8 chain, 5 chain, 4 long over the 6 long.– 3d round. 5 chain crochet to the centre of 5 chain, 5 chain crochet to the centre of 5 chain, 5 chain, 3 long.– 4th round. 5 chain. Work this lace round the top of the row of leaves which is to form the side of cushion, commencing at the 17th round. * * * * * KNITTING 26. BONNET-PRESERVER. Materials–Raworths thread No. 34, or fine knitting-cotton; pins No 16. Cast on 92 stitches.– 1st row. Plain.– 2d row. Knit 1, (a) thread forward, knit 2 together; repeat from (a).– 3d row. Pearl.– 4th row. Cast off 13 stitches at the beginning and end of the row, knit the remaining stitches.– 5th row. Pearl.– 6th row. Knit 3, (a) thread forward, knit 5, thread forward, knit 3 together; repeat from (a), and finish with knit 3.– 7th row. Pearl.– 8th row. Knit 1, knit 2 together, (a) thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 1; repeat from (a), and finish with knit 2 together, knit 1.– 9th row. Pearl.– 10th row. Knit 2, (a) thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together; repeat from (a), and finish with knit 2.– 11th row. Pearl. Commence again at 6th row, beginning each row with knit 2, and knit until five diamonds are worked; knit two plain rows, then thread forward, knit 2 together, after which a pearl row, and cast off loosely in knitting the two last diamonds, and the remaining rows increase by making a stitch at the beginning and end of each row; join the piece behind, and pass a narrow ribbon through the open loops and down the front, leaving sufficient for strings. * * * * * EMBROIDERY 27. SMALL OTTOMAN. Materials–Black satin; four shades of scarlet, four ditto of crimson, four ditto of amber, four ditto of peach, three ditto of stone-colours, three ditto of blue, three ditto of blue greens, three ditto of yellow greens, and one skein of white embroidery silk or of Berlin wools. Draw the pattern upon the satin, and work in embroidery stitch. Commence the first dahlia with shades of amber; the second with the shades of stone-colour, using white for the lightest; the third with scarlet shades; the fourth with peach shades; the roses with the crimsons; the lilies with the stone-colours, using white for the lightest shade; and the forget-me-nots with the shades of blue. Work the rose-leaves with the yellow greens, and the dahlia-leaves with the blue greens; work the stems with brown. The stamens of the yellow dahlia must be worked with green, but in all the others with yellow. * * * * * [Illustration: No. 19 CLARET-JUG MAT] [Illustration: Nos 20. 21 CORNERS FOR HANDKERCHIEF] [Illustration: NO. 22. COVER FOR EASY-CHAIR] * * * * * CROCHET. 28. CARD-BASKET. Materials–Shaded green, shaded amber, shaded geranium-colour, Berlin wool; two skeins of blue, two of green, Berlin wool, and two yards of wire, will also be required. With shaded green make a chain of nine stitches; unite and work ten rounds in close double crochet, increasing in every stitch in the first round, in every alternate in the second, and in the same stitch in each of the succeeding rounds.– 11th round. Work along stitch in each stitch, missing every ninth stitch.– 12th round. 3 long, 3 chain, miss 2.– 13th round (with amber). 3 long worked in the 3 chain of last round, 4 chain; repeat.– 14th round. Close double crochet.– 15th round (with shaded green). 3 long worked in one stitch, 1 chain, miss 3; repeat.– 16th round. Close double crochet.– 17th round (with amber). 3 long worked above the one chain of 15th round, 2 chain; repeat.– 18th and 19th rounds. Close double crochet. The last of these rounds is worked over a wire, and a round in close double crochet, with amber, is also worked over a wire in the 10th round, to form the bottom of basket. Wrap four pieces of wire, the height of the basket, with green wool, and attach to the inside at regular distances. Prepare a piece of wire, in like manner, for the handle. Work the handle as follows: With shaded green make a chain the length required.– 2d row (with amber). Close double crochet.– 3d row (with green). Close double crochet; sew this to the wire, which must be placed in the under side. Prepare the flowers and leaves which ornament the edge of the basket in the following manner: Geranium.–With geranium-coloured wool make a chain of five stitches, unite, and work a round in double crochet, increasing in every stitch; work a round without increasing, then work 1 single crochet, 2 chain, 3 long, 2 chain, 1 single crochet, in one stitch, miss 1, and repeat in every alternate stitch. For the Cup of the Flower.–With green make a chain of five stitches, unite, and work 1 single, 2 long, 1 single in every stitch. Make the stamens with amber wool, and sew the stamens and flower to the cup. For Geranium-bud.–With geranium-colour make a chain of three stitches, unite, increase in the second round by working two in each alternate stitch; work 2 rounds without increasing; then work two rounds decreasing in every stitch. With green make a chain of four stitches, unite, and work 1 single, 3 long, 1 single; repeat three times, and draw the bud through this, leaving a piece for the stem, which must be wrapped with green wool. Forget-me-not.–With blue make a chain of five, unite, and into this ring work 1 single, 2 long, 1 single; repeat four times. For the Cup of the Flower.–With green make a chain of four stitches, work 1 single, 1 long in every loop; make stamens with pieces of amber wool; place the flower within the cup, draw the stamens through, and sew at the end, leaving a piece of wool for the stem, which is wrapped with green. For the Leaves.–With green make a chain of 18 stitches; work down one side of these for 11 stitches in single crochet; turn to the other side, work 1 single, 2 long, in the first two stitches; (a) 1 single, 1 long, in third stitch; 2 double long in the fourth; 1 long, 2 chain, in the fifth stitch; repeat from (a) once, and work 1 long, 2 double long, in the ninth and tenth stitches, and in the last stitch work two treble long. Work the other side of leaf to correspond. Work down the chain to the fifteenth stitch; from this work a chain of 11 stitches, and work a leaf from the directions already given. Work a third leaf on the reverse side of stem. Seven geraniums and three buds will be required, and fifteen forget-me-nots and seven sprays of leaves will also be needed. Arrange the flowers and leaves on the basket as seen in illustration, and sew on the handle. * * * * * [Illustration: No. 23. LADY’S RETICULE.] [Illustration: No. 24. SPECTACLE CASE.] [Illustration: No. 25. TOILET CUSHION.] [Illustration: No. 26. BONNET PRESERVER.] * * * * * CROCHET 29. RAISED CROCHET COLLAR. Materials–Raworth’s crochet-thread No. 70, and a middle-sized tambour-needle. Cut out in paper the shape of the collar you wish to make, but half an inch larger all round. Edging for the Collar.–Make a chain about one-third longer than the outside of your paper pattern, turn and work the first row along the chain in long crochet, making a chain stitch after each long one, and missing the corresponding loop of the chain.– 2d row. Turn again, keeping the work on the right side; make 3 chain stitches, and along the opposite edge of the long stitches, (a), work 10 plain stitches, and in the tenth a chain of 9 stitches; turn, and along the vein just made work 8 stitches in double crochet, and 1 plain stitch in the loop from which the chain springs; repeat from (a) throughout the row. Break off your cotton, and begin the next row and all the following at the other end.– 3d row. (b) Work 9 plain stitches, then work round the vein in long stitches, making an additional stitch at the top; repeat from (b).– 4th row. (c) Work 8 plain stitches, then round the leaf in long stitches, making 2 additional stitches in the top loop; repeat from (c).– 5th row. (d) Work 7 plain stitches, then, in double crochet, making round the leaf an additional stitch in the top loop; repeat from (d).– 6th row. (e) Work 6 plain stitches, and round the leaf in double crochet, without making a stitch at the top; repeat from (e). To complete your edging, work a row of double crochet on the other edge of the row of long stitches. Flowers for the Collar.– Make a chain of 6 stitches; close it by taking a plain stitch in the first of the chain; work in every loop of this small ring 2 long stitches, with a chain-stitch between each of the long ones. In finishing the round, make a stitch to complete the number of twenty-five loops; then (a) work 5 plain stitches, and in the fifth make a chain of 7 stitches; turn, work 6 stitches in double crochet along the chain, and 1 plain in the loop from which the chain springs; repeat from (a) four times. You have then three veins; work round them as directed for the leaves of the edging; after the second row of double crochet break off your cotton. According to the size of the collar, five or six flowers will be sufficient, if you make also the trifoliums. Trifoliums.–Make a chain of 18 stitches; turn, and work along the chain 3 plain stitches, a vein of 7 stitches; 6 plain, a vein of 8 stitches; 6 more plain stitches, another vein of 7; 3 plain stitches, and break off the cotton. Begin at the first end, and work the two rows of long stitches exactly as directed for the leaves of the edging; at the end of the two following rows, which are in double crochet, round the leaves, instead of breaking off the cotton, work in double crochet from the third leaflet to the first; thus connecting the work in one single leaf with three divisions. Having prepared the required number of flowers and leaves, baste your edging on the paper pattern, so that the whole of the leaves rest on the paper; then work a chain rather loose, to connect the two ends of the collar on the neck side; turn, and work along that chain a row of double crochet. Baste this narrow band carefully half an inch from the edge of the paper; then begin a row of double crochet inside the collar, throwing, at even distances, a slanting chain from the edging to the neckband, working back each time along that chain in long or double crochet; repeat the same operation from the neckband to the edging, so as to divide the whole middle of the collar in a certain number of diamonds; baste the diamonds to the paper, place alternately in each a flower or a trifolium, and, with a sewing-needle and fine French embroidery cotton, connect the flowers and leaves to the inside edges of the diamonds in long twisted stitches, rows of button-hole stitches, or any kind of lace-work. After being washed and starched, the collar ought to be pressed on the wrong side with the head of a round nail warmed in the fire. * * * * * Page-22. SCAGLIOLA WORK 30. A CHESS-BOARD. This description of drawing is called Scagliola work, or a Mischia (mixed workmanship); it was first invented by Guido Tassi, and the art was afterwards improved and perfected by Henry Hugford, a monk, of Vallambrosa. It was first used to counterfeit marbles; and the altar of St. Antonio, in the church of St. Nicolo, at Carpi, is still preserved as a monument of extraordinary skill and beauty. It consists of two columns, representing porphyry, and adorned with a pallium, embroidered as it were with lace; while it is ornamented in the margin with medals bearing beautiful figures. The dicromi, or yellow figures on a black ground, in imitation of the Etruscan vases, are now most admired in scagliola work; and as the art is one easy of attainment, we shall describe it. Having procured a piece of sycamore of the desired size and shape, you draw upon it with a pencil, first the centre piece, and afterwards the border; you then trace over the pencil marks with Indian-ink and a fine crow-quill, and next fill in the ground with Indian-ink and a camel’s-hair brush. After two or three days, varnish with the best picture-varnish. If sycamore cannot be procured, deal will answer the purpose, covered with good cream-coloured drawing-paper. * * * * * [Illustration: No. 27. SMALL OTTOMAN] [Illustration: No. 28. CARD BASKET.] [Illustration: No. 29. COLLAR.] * * * * * CROCHET. 31. GARNITURE FOR TOILET-BASKET. Materials–Raworth’s crochet-thread No. 40; Penelope crochet No. 3. Make a chain of 60 stitches; work round this, at each side and the ends, 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2, increasing by missing but 1 stitch at the ends. Work 10 rounds thus; then make a round of double crochet. For the sides, work 13 rounds in the same manner, but increasing in every alternate round by making 3 chain-stitches between the long; finish with the following lace: Pattern for Lace.– 1st round. 3 long, 3 chain, miss 2, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 2, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 2, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 2; repeat.– 2d round. 5 long, the first worked over the last stitch of chain; the others in succeeding stitches, 4 chain, 1 long, 4 chain, 1 long, 4 chain; repeat.– 3d round. 3 long worked over the 3 centre long stitches, 5 chain, 1 long, 4 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.– 4th and 5th rounds. 1 long, 5 chain, the long worked in the centre stitch of chain; repeat.– 6th round. 5 long worked in the centre stitch of chain, 3 chain, miss 8; repeat.– 7th round. 3 long, the first in the last chain stitch, the succeeding above the first, 2 long, 2 chain, miss 1, 3 long, 3 chain; repeat.– 8th, 9th, and 10th rounds. 1 plain, worked in the centre stitch of 3 chain of last round, 3 chain, 1 long, miss 3, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 3, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 3, 3 chain; repeat. Line the basket with rose-coloured satin before sewing in the crochet lining; wrap the handle with ribbon of shade to correspond with the satin, and place small rosettes at each side. * * * * * EMBROIDERY 32. GREEK CAP. Materials required will be a quarter of a yard of common bed-ticken, but of a good broad stripe; some fine gold thread, also some silver thread, and various coloured silks. Measure the size round the head, and cut a piece of ticken to the length, and of the depth of seven inches; work on the black stripes in herring-bone; stitch a row of gold and silver cord, alternate; and on the intermediate white stripes work, according to fancy, different coloured silks, also in herring-bone stitch, only rather larger, to fill up the stripe. Cut a piece of ticken round, and of about 2-1/2 inches in diameter; work it in the same manner, and mount it on a circular piece of card; full the headpiece round the small crown, line it with some bright-coloured Persian, and trim it with a gilt band, and gilt tassel to match. This cap is so simple a work, that it hardly allows any one to suppose it will look as pretty as it certainly does. * * * * * CROCHET. 33. FLOWER-STAND. Materials–Scarlet and green shaded eight-thread Berlin wool; Penelope crochet needle No. 1. With scarlet make a chain of 9 stitches, join and work a round in double crochet, increasing in every stitch.– 3d round. 1 long, 3 chain, miss 2 all round.– 4th round. 1 long in the centre stitch of chain, 4 chain; repeat all round.– 5th round. Double crochet.– 6th round. 3 long, the centre one above the 1 long in 3d round, 4 chain; repeat all round.– 7th round. 4 long worked in the 4 chain stitches, 4 chain; repeat all round.– 8th round. Double crochet.– 9th round. 4 long worked over the chain stitches, 6 chain; repeat.– 10th round. 1 stitch of solid long stitch in every loop.– 11th round (with the green wool). 1 long, 5 chain, miss 2; repeat.– 12th round. 1 long, 5 chain, miss 1; repeat.– 13th round. Chain of 7 stitches, worked in every third stitch with a plain stitch.– 14th and three following rounds. Chain of 9 stitches, worked in the centre stitch of chain of previous round.– 18th round. 3 chain, 1 plain, taking the centre chain-stitch of every 5th chain of 9; repeat all round, and this completes the mat. * * * * * CROCHET. 34. COVER FOR TASSEL OF WINDOW-BLIND. Materials–Raworth’s crochet-thread No. 40; Penelope crochet No. 3. Make a chain of 40 stitches, join and work two rounds in single open crochet.– 3d round. 4 chain, 1 long; repeat.– 4th round. 3 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.– 5th round. 5 long worked in the last chain-stitch, and over the 3 long stitches and in the first chain-stitch, 5 chain, 1 long 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.– 6th round. 7 long worked as in 5th round, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.– 7th round. 9 long worked as before, 5 chain, 1 long, 4 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.– 8th round. 11 long worked as before, 5 chain, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.– 9th round. 13 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.– 10th round. 15 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.– 11th round. 17 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.– 12th round. 15 long, 4 chain, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 long, 4 chain; repeat.– 13th round. 13 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 4 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.– 14th round. 11 long, 7 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 7 chain; repeat.– 15th round. 9 long, 5 chain, 1 long worked in the centre stitch of the 7 chain, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.– 16th round. 7 long, 7 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 7 chain; repeat.– 17th round. 5 long, 3 chain, 1 long worked in the centre stitch of 7 chain, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.– 18th round. 3 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain.– 19th round. 1 long, 7 chain; repeat all round.– 20th round. 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2; repeat all round.– 21st round. 3 plain, 9 chain, miss 5; repeat all round.– 22d round. 2 chain, 1 long, miss 1; repeat all round. * * * * * [Illustration: No. 30. Scagliola Work.] [Illustration: No. 31. Garniture for Toilette-Basket.] [Illustration: No. 32. Greek Cap.] * * * * * CROCHET. 35. UNDER-SLEEVE. Material–Raworth’s crochet-thread No. 70. Band of insertion for the Wrist.–19 c s, unite d c round this ring eighteen times, which will cover about three-quarters of the ring. Turn the work wrong side up. 6 c s, miss 2, s c into third stitch; repeat this five times more. Turn 1 d c, 5 l s, 1 d c, into every space formed by 6 c s, d c round the remaining part of the ring six times; fasten off, leaving one end about three inches long. Turn on the wrong side. Begin on the third stitch of third scallop of last flower. 12 c s, s c into fifth stitch of next scallop, forming a loop over the two centre scallops. Turn. D c round this loop eighteen times. Turn. * 6 c s, miss 2, s c into third stitch; repeat from * five times more. Turn. 1 d c, 5 l s, 1 d c into every space formed by 6 c s; fasten off, leaving one end as in last flower. Work fifteen of these flowers, thread a fine needle with the ends left, and make a few stitches on the wrong side to secure them. The band between the two puffings is to be worked exactly the same; but there must be eighteen flowers instead of fifteen. Commence the fulness on the band for the wrist on the first scallop, at the edge, 5 c s (working in the end of the thread), s c into the centre of next scallop, * 6 c s, s c into the first scallop of next flower. 5 c s, s c into next scallop; repeat from * to the end of the band. 2d row. Commence on the first loop of 5 c s in last row, * 8 c s, d c round the next loop, 8 c s, d c round the same loop; repeat from * to the end of the row.–3d row. Commence on first loop of 8 c s in last row, 9 c s, d c into next loop, 9 c s, d c into next loop; repeat to the end of the row.–4th row. Commence on the same loop of 8 c s, as the last row was begun on 10 c s, d c round the centre of first loop in last row, * 9 c s, d c round the next loop; repeat from * to the end of the row. After the d c stitch round the last loop in this row, make 5 c s, and draw the end of the cotton through. These 5 c s must be worked at the end of every alternate row, in order to keep the ends of the fulness even. Work four more rows like the two last, making in all six rows, then seven rows, having 10 c s in each loop, every alternate row of which is begun in the same loop as the preceding row, having 12 c s in the first loop. Then work six more rows like the former six, having 9 c s in each loop. This will make nineteen rows of loops: fasten off. Work a fulness on the upper band of insertion in exactly the same manner, and gather it in at the top next the sleeve in this way: commence on the first loop 2 c s, take the next loop on the needle, and d c round it once, 2 c s, * d c round next loop once, 2 c s; repeat from * to end of row. In the next row, work 1 l s into every stitch of last row. To unite the fulness on the wristband to the upper band of insertion, turn them both on the wrong side, and hold them as if they were to be sewn together, the insertion being at the back. Take the first loop, and the centre stitch of the first scallop, on the needle, and work 1 s c to unite them, 3 c s, s c the next loop and centre stitch of the next scallop, o 4 c s, s c the next loop and centre of first scallop in next flounce together, 3 c s, s c next loop and next scallop, o * 4 c s, s c next loop and next scallop, 2 c s; take the next loop on the needle without the scallop, and s c once round it, 2 c s, s c the next loop and next scallop together; repeat from * to end of row, except on the two last flowers, which must be worked as from o to o. For the Edging on the Wristband.–Commence on the first scallop of the insertion, * 5 c s, s c into next scallop, 6 c s, s c into next scallop; repeat from * to end of row. 2d row. 10 c s, 1 l s, into first loop of last row, * 3 c s, 1 l s into same loop, 3 c s, 1 l s into next loop; repeat from * to end of row.– 3d row. 7 c s, d c round every loop of last row.– 4th row. 4 c s, 1 l s into every loop of last row.– 5th row. Begin on the first loop of third row, 6 c s, 5 l s into first loop of last row, 4 c s, d c into next loop, * 4 c s, 5 l s into next loop, 4 c s, d c into next loop; repeat from *.– 6th row. 4 d c stitches round first loop of 6 c s in last row, 8 c s, * miss the 5 l s, d c four times round the next loop of 4 c s, 4 d c round the next loop, 8 c s; repeat from .– 7th row. Begin on first loop of 8 in last row, 7 c s, s c between the two loops of 4 d c each, * 7 c s, s c round the centre of 8 c s in last row, 10 c s, d c round the same loop, 7 c s, s c between the two loops of 4 d c; repeat from * to end of row. This finishes the edging. D c round the ends of the puffings, taking in the ends left on finishing the rows. Make a chain of 15 stitches at the ends of the two bands of insertions, and s c into the edge for a small loop. D c round these twenty-four times, and sew a small pearl button on the other ends of the bands. The insertion may have a narrow satin ribbon run through the open holes, finished by a small bow at the upper part of the sleeve. * * * * * [Illustration: No. 33. Flower-Stand.] [Illustration: No. 34. Cover for Tassel of Window-Blind.] [Illustration: No. 35. Under-Sleeve.] [Illustration: No. 36. Smoking Cap.] [Illustration: No. 37. Baby’s Cap.] [Illustration: No. 38. Border for a Baby’s Cap.] * * * * * EMBROIDERY IN BRAID 36. SMOKING CAP. Materials–Claret-coloured velvet, gold braid, and a gold band and tassels. Six pieces of velvet, three nails in length, and the width given in diagram will be required, and these must be sloped to a point. Draw the designs upon the velvet with a white crayon, and sew on the braid; arrange the patterns in alternate order; neatly join the pieces of velvet, and edge each joining with braid; line with silk, and finish with band and tassels. * * * * * CROCHET. 37. BABY’S CAP. Materials–Raworth’s threads Nos. 90 and 100, and Penelope crochet No. 4. With No. 90 make a chain of 3 loops, join and work a round of double crochet.– 2d round. Open crochet all round.– 3d round. Double crochet all round.– 4th round. 3 chain, 1 long, missing 2 loops of preceding round; repeat.– 5th round. Double crochet all round.– 6th and 7th rounds. 3 chain, crochet; repeat.– 8th round. Double crochet all round.– 9th round. 3 chain, 2 long, missing 3 loops of preceding round; repeat.– 10th round. Double crochet all round.– 11th and 12th rounds. 3-chain crochet, increasing as required, to form the round for crown.– 13th round. Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding round; repeat.– 14th round. Three 3-chain, 5 chain over the 5 long of preceding round; repeat.– 15th, 16th, 17th, and 18th rounds. Like the 13th and 14th rounds.– 19th round. 3-chain crochet all round.– 20th round. 3-chain crochet-all round.– 21st round. Double crochet. This completes the crown of the cap; leave one-third to form the neck. The front of the cap must be worked throughout on one side, commencing at the right hand. Front.–1st round. 3 chain, 2 long, missing 3 loop of preceding round; repeat.– 2d round. Double crochet.– 3d round. 3-chain crochet.– 4th round. Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet stitch of preceding row; repeat.– 5th row. Three 3-chain double crochet over the long stitches of preceding row; repeat.– 6th row. Three 3-chain crochet, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, missing 1 loop between each long over the double crochet of preceding row; repeat.– 7th row. Three 3-chain crochet, double crochet over the long stitches of preceding row; repeat.– 8th row. 3-chain crochet; repeat. 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, and 13th rows, like the 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th rows.– 14th row. 3-chain crochet.– 15th row. Double crochet, missing every alternate loop of preceding row.– 16th row. 2 chain, 2 long, missing 2 loops of preceding row; repeat.– 17th row. Double crochet.– 18th row. 3-chain crochet; repeat.– 19th row. 3-chain crochet; repeat.– 20th row. Three 3-chain crochet, five long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch; repeat.– 21st row. 3-chain crochet, 5 chain over the 5 long of preceding row.– 22d row. 3-chain crochet; repeat.– 23d, 24th, 25th, and 26th rows, like the 19th, 20th, 21st, and 22d rows.– 27th row. 3-chain crochet; repeat.– 28th row. Double crochet; repeat.– 29th row. 3 chain, 2 long, missing 3 loops of preceding row; repeat.– 30th row. Double crochet; repeat. Work the ends of the front and that part of the crown that was left to form the neck, in double crochet, rounding the crown part by missing every second loop; then work 2 chain, 2 long, missing 2 loops of preceding row; then a row of double crochet: this completes the cap. Draw with narrow satin ribbon, and trim with the following lace:– * * * * * 38. LACE FOR CAP. This lace must be worked throughout on one side, commencing at the right-hand side of foundation. Make a chain the required length with thread No. 90; work 1 row in double crochet.– 1st row. Thread No. 100 double crochet.– 2d row. 1 chain, 1 long in every alternate loop of foundation; repeat.– 3d row. Double crochet.– 4th row. 3-chain crochet.– 5th row. Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding row; repeat.– 6th row. 3-chain crochet, 5 chain over the five long stitches of preceding row; repeat.– 7th row. 3-chain crochet.– 8th row. Five 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every sixth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding row; repeat.– 9th row. Five 3-chain crochet, 5 chain over the 5 long stitches of preceding row; repeat.– 10th row. 3-chain crochet.– 11th row. 3-chain crochet.– 12th row. Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding row; repeat.– 13th row. Three 3-chain crochet, double crochet over the 5 long stitches of preceding row; repeat.– 14th row. Three 3-chain crochet, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, missing 2 loops between each long; repeat.– 15th row. Three 3-chain crochet, double crochet over the long stitches of preceding row; repeat.– 16th row. 5 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, missing 2 loops between each long; repeat.– 17th row. Double crochet.–18th row. 5-chain crochet. * * * * * [Illustration: No. 39. APRON.] [Illustration: No. 40.] [Illustration: No. 41.] [Illustration: No. 42. SCARF.] [Illustration: No. 43.] [Illustration: No. 44.] * * * * * EMBROIDERY 39. APRON. Materials–Black satin and four shades of crimson, two ditto of blue, three ditto of green, and white embroidery silk. Draw the design on the satin, and work in embroidery stitch the large flowers with the shades of crimson, commencing each petal with the second shade, then work with the third, and finish with the lightest. Commence the centre of the flower with the lightest, then work with the second shade, after which work the two upper divisions with the two next shades in regular order. Work the cup of the flower with the middle shade of green, and the piece beneath with the second shade of crimson. Work the stems with the lightest green, and the leaves with the other two shades. Work the centre part of the small flowers with the darkest crimson, the small petals which encircle this with the next shade of crimson; then work with the darkest blue, after which with the lightest, and finish the edge of the flower with white. Work the pockets and the band in a similar manner, and finish with cord and tassels. * * * * * TAMBOUR 42. LIMERICK LACE SCARF. Materials–Brussels net, French working-cotton No. 120, Raworth’s sewing-cotton No. 100, and a fine pearl edge. Work the outline of the pattern and the edge with French cotton in tambour-stitch, and fill in the spaces with the sewing-cotton in the same stitch, or, if preferred, in darning-stitch; work dots in the places indicated in the design, and, after washing the scarf, sew a pearl edge all round. A description of head-dress, for which this scarf is intended, will be found in the London and Paris fashions of No. 126 of the Lady’s Newspaper. * * * * * NETTING 45. A KNITTING-BAG. Materials–Raworth’s crochet-thread No. 40; a reel of pink cotton of the same size, or two pieces of white and two of pink netting-silk; three silk pink and white tassels; two yards and a half of silk bag-cord; half-a-yard of pink sarsnet; three meshes cornucopia gauge of No. 1, No. 6, and one No. 11; two netting-needles; and a piece of cane used for drawn bonnets. Set on 71 stitches with No. 1 mesh, join the round in pink cotton.–No. 11 mesh. Net 4 rounds of alternate white and pink.– No. 1 mesh (white cotton). 2 plain rounds.–No. 6 mesh. Take 2 of the preceding row together in pink cotton; 1 plain round, same cotton and mesh.–No. 1 mesh (white cotton). Make 2 stitches in each stitch of the preceding row; 1 round plain, same cotton and mesh.–No. 11 mesh (pink cotton). Net 5 plain rounds; recommence from * twice; finish top of bag by 3 plain rows in white of No. 6 mesh, for the cords to pass through; 2 plain rows in pink of No. 11 mesh; last row, double pink cotton, with No. 1 mesh. Take the half-yard of sarsnet, join it up neatly, make 3 runners the width of the cane, the first at three inches from the bottom, the second at two inches from the first, and the third two inches from the second; run a piece of cane ten inches long in the first runner, another piece of sixteen inches and a half long in the second runner, and one of eleven inches and a half long in the third runner; tack each of these bands of cane to the 5 rows of fine netting to form the shape, close up the bottom, and place a tassel; run the cord round the top of bag, and fasten a tassel to each end. * * * * * NETTING 48. VASE-STAND. Materials–Shaded green, shaded scarlet, and shaded amber Berlin wool; meshes Nos. 1, 4, and 8. With scarlet make a foundation of 25 loops on mesh No. 4; join and net 1 round on mesh No. 8; fasten on the green; net 2 loops in 1; then net 3